Většina žen má okolo třiceti první šediny. To je pravda, ale většina žen o tom ani neví, protože si pravidelně vlasy barví. Vymoženost moderní doby? Nikoliv, již dávná tradice od dob starého Egypta.
Nejstarší doklad barvených vlasů:
Před pěti tisíci lety byla v Egyptě mumifikována žena s prošedivělými vlasy, nabarvenými hennou. Tento nález dokládá, že kromě paruk, příčesků a korálků hrála barva velikou roli.
Henna pomáhala Egypťanům i Egypťankám dosáhnout tmavé barvy, vysokého lesku a pevnosti vlasů. Henna neproniká do vlasu, jako chemická barviva, ale obalí vlas slabou vrstvou, která jej chrání proti vnějším vlivům, zabraňuje lámání a také perfektně odráží světlo. Vlasy nabarvené hennou byly černé, na prudkém slunci házely měděné odlesky. Namodralá havraní čerň byla zase výsledkem barvení indigem, to se do Egypta dostalo až mnohem později.
Kadeřníci starého Egypta barvili hennou nejen vlasy svých zákazníků, ale i jejich paruky. Běžnou praxí bylo, že vlastní vlasy si zákaznice nechala zkrátit "na kluka" (a pro dokonalost nabarvit) a na ně teprve pokládala paruku s delšími vlasy. Jiným řešením byl střih vlasů po ramena a prodloužení přidáním příčesků z vlasů otroků. Nabarvit pak všechny vlasy na stejný odstín vyžadovalo pečlivost a praxi.
Římanky a jejich touha po světlých vlasech:
Majitelky krásných tmavých vlasů, olivové pleti a temných očí zatoužily po kráse svých germánských otrokyň. První odbarvené blondýnky opravdu najdeme ve starověkém Římě. Bohaté ženy si splnily svůj sen jednoduše tak, že si vybíraly otrokyně se zvláště krásnými vlasy, daly je ostříhat a paruka byla na světě.
Chudší Římanky se musely uchýlit k "chemii". Jako naprosto zaručená směs k odbarvení vlasů se používal speciální mýdelný roztok z kozího loje a bukového listí. Jednodušší byla aplikace odvaru z heřmánku, k té bylo ale nutné strávit dobu mezi jedenáctou a jednou hodinou na prudkém slunci, aby odbarvovací efekt dosáhl maxima. Která žena nechtěla riskovat úžeh, zbývala jí šťáva z citrónů, nanášená štětečkem z kančích štětin. Přes všechny snahy ale Římanky ze svých tmavých vlasů platinovou blondýnku udělat nedokázaly.
Recepty našich babiček
Okolo roku 1890 se henna dostala i do střední Evropy, u nás však převládaly staré a ověřené recepty. Pro intenzivnější tóny hnědých vlasů se připravoval odvar z kaštanových listů, čokoládovou zaručoval odvar ze šalvěje a rozmarýnu s přidáním jablečného octa. Havraní čerň se vyráběla z ořechových skořápek. Paletu barev poskytovaly cibulové slupky, které dnes známe hlavně jako barvivo na vajíčka. Červená, žlutá či tmavá cibule, různé směsi, délka louhování a přidávání bylin, zkrátka bylo to doslova umění v pravém slova smyslu.
Jedničkou v péči o tmavé vlasy byl silný černý čaj, kterým se vlasy po umytí propláchly a už se nesmýval. Tmavovlásky mohou takto jednoduše oživit barvu bez chemie i dnes.
Pro zesvětlení plavých vlasů se používal již zmíněný heřmánek a lipový květ. Zajímavý byl zábal z reveňových kořenů s vaječným žloutkem, který dodával plavým vlasům lesk a zajímavý kovový nádech. Teplou žlutou barvu zase ženy získávaly odvarem z divizny.
Nástup chemie
Roku 1909 přišel francouzský chemik Eugéne Schuller s prvními "bezpečnými" chemickými barvami , uvedl na trh barvu Dream blond a založil firmu French Harmless Hair Dye Company, která se o rok později přejmenovala L´Oreal. Peroxid vodíku a amoniak se postupně staly nerozlučnými průvodci všech kadeřníků. Ve třicátých letech se v Hollywoodu objevily platinové blondýnky a chemie zcela ovládla pole vlasové kosmetiky. Až v poslední době se výrobci vrací k přírodním složkám a stylisté doporučují spíše užívání receptů našich babiček.
Zdroj:centrum.cz
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